Fooled Ya!! 
Here's an airbag write-up, hopefully one that will answer all airbag questions.

If you have a Cabby with an intact airbag system and the airbag warning lights are off, let's keep it that way.

Well, that warning is okay as far as it goes, mostly, airbag warnings get set while other repair work is being done.
Commonly, the steering wheel, ignition switch and/or combination switches are being serviced, while the airbag is still disconnected the key gets switched on for testing the just repaired or replaced component, that's the moment that the light sets.
To avoid that scenario follow the warning above about disconnecting the battery and waiting 20 minutes, sorry I have no idea where the red single pin connector is, then disconnect the six pin main airbag harness connector found just below the fuse panel.

One screw holds the connector bracket in place

the orange bar locks the connector halves together, pry the orange bar up and out and disconnect the connector halves.

The airbag controller is now completely isolated from the rest of the airbag system and the rest of the cars electrical system. It cannot possibly set a code.

Once other repairs are completed and all of the connections restored, make sure the key is switched off, disconnect the battery and reconnect the airbag main harness connector. Reconnect the battery and all should be as before.

Be sure to follow this warning as well.


OK, so you didn't do anything to the car, the airbag lights are on anyway.
You can try disconnecting the battery overnight, click your heels together three times and burn some incense, maybe light will be out when you reconnect the battery.
There should be a way to pull blinky codes from the ECU, the connectors are there, the procedure and code list are nowhere that I have ever found.
The only known way to clear codes that have no obvious cause is to find a dealership a repair shop that has a VAG 1551.

The VAG 1551 is a very obsolete tool now days, it was a very cranky, awkward, unfriendly curmudgeon of a tool, so not only do you have to find a shop that has one, you also have to hope they have a technician on staff that is familiar with it. Most shops typically charge a one hour minimum to connect any scan tool.
You've gone this far, the lights are still on, you're now ready to disable them.

There are at least two ways to go.

Brian likes to remove the instrument cluster and snip the leads of the LEDs. This method leaves the ECU connected and the charging capacitor for the igniter charged up.

I prefer to disconnect the airbag ECU from the rest of the system entirely. VW very cleverly hid a connection in the ECU harness that prevent you from starting the car after simply unplugging the ECU.
Go back to the first post in this thread above and find and unplugged the main harness connector below the fuse panel. On the left side of that plug find the two black wires and splice them together.
This method leaves the leads to the igniter open circuit and subject to possible freak charging of the igniter and airbag deployment from some random event such as a lightning strike, a crash into an electrical substation were very poorly aimed Taser shot.

Brian's method is also subject to the same freak conditions.

The simple bypass splice looks like this...

A slightly more complex splice looks like this first step

completed like this...

This second more complex splice allows restoration of the system to its previous condition at any time by simply reconnecting the main harness connector.


That caution certainly doesn't give much cause for confidence in a 16 to 19-year-old system, does it?

Here's a parts list...

As of June the second 2008, the local dealer here in Santa Cruz quoted the following prices;

155 419 669 01C air bag $1398.44

155 959 651 air bag inflation delay sender $593.88, there are two of these per car.

155 959 653 01C canceling ring with slip ring $592.62

155 959 655 air bag control module $1209.14

Schematic and legend...........

If the warning lights are on and you want to do some electrical testing, follow the disconnect and disable instructions in the first post of this thread and also find terminal T2a leading up to the clock spring and disconnect that.
You can then safely test at the main harness connector, T6, for a starter signal atT6/2, the red/black wire; ignition on power at T6/3, black wire; and system ground at T6/3, brown wire.
T6/3, T6/5 and T6/6 all operate the warning lights in the instrument cluster.

You can get up under the cowl on each side and test deceleration sensors. The female pin to the sensor itself is pin one on the schematic showing a black wire, from pin 1 two either male pin on pin 2 or pin 3 should read approximately 10K?, pin 2 to pin 3 should be a dead short.

Continuity test to the airbag igniter at your own risk, that procedure is certainly NOT recommended.

Here's a block diagram of the steering column components.

If you decide to completely remove the airbag and wish to install a steering wheel intended for a non-airbag car, these other components to remove and replace....

Yes, that's a steering column shaft you see there. There's only one more bolt involved over and above standard ignition switch replacement and the column shaft comes right out. You can use any non-airbag A1 donor car for the steering column shaft including a Sirocco.
Get the combo switch too.
From the donor car also find it brown wire for the horn circuit, release its locking tab from the combination switch plug, take six to 8 inches of the wire and splice that back into your car.
Install the early model steering wheel of your choice.


One more pic, self explanatory............